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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.